“I want no boundaries,” said Antonio Marras during a walk-through at his charming Milanese headquarter, a place that itself epitomizes this unconstrained spirit by mingling fashion, pottery and art — all bearing the designer’s artisanal stamp.
His resort collection fitted in with this approach, further emphasizing the cross-pollination of references, fabrics and techniques Marras likes to explore, including the masculine-feminine duality he has always had a penchant for. Mannish boxy suits and shirts were softened by floral inserts and cascades of sequins, both elements he generously deployed to disrupt the appearance and elevate other wardrobe staples, such as knitwear, field jackets and parkas.
Building on the utilitarian vibe, cargo pants were cut open and enriched with printed panels or pleated inserts to result in long skirts, while black shirts were deconstructed and reassembled in flowy volumes, this time embellished with scraps of silk scarves — an addition to Marras’ lexicon that also stood out in his men’s spring 2023 lineup.
“What if [scarves’ prints] look like or remind [you] of something else? I don’t have these concerns any more. I do only what I want and feel like doing,” the designer said. His anarchic attitude shone bright in even heavier patchworks informing knitted sweaters and asymmetric slipdresses, which also featured striped and animal patterns.
Pristine broderie anglaise frocks popping up here and there acted as a palate cleanser in the rich collection, which delivered decorative exuberance while spotlighting the Sardinian designer’s inventiveness and craftsmanship.