Thom Browne’s provocative men’s 2022 show in June, with the jock straps, crop tops and chaps, also included a preview at the women’s resort collection when Farida Khelfa, Marisa Berenson, Anh Duong and more played the parts of couture clients rushing to their seats at the last minute.
Those friends of Thom (Amy Fine Collins, Dree Hemingway, Debra Shaw) were photographed in a haute hurry outside the Paris Automobile Club for the women’s resort look book.
“I wanted to give the clothes a real life on real women who are inspiring,” Browne explained. “They’ve lived such amazing lives and are so engaged…it was so great for me and my team to hear their stories.”
As always, Browne tinkered with tailoring, playing with proportions of pieces in rich tweeds, madras checks, shirting stripes, with jacquards and embroideries featuring storybook landscapes and naive florals.
Oversize jackets looked great over matching Bermuda shorts or on their own as a minidress, and would do well outside his total universe, too, with jeans, perhaps.
A madras shrunken jacket over a matching miniskirt and cropped pants was an edgier take on a suit. Sleeveless blazers, short-sleeve check shirts and a lightweight windowpane tweed frayed edge cape also looked cool and comfortable.
The Hector bag lightened up, too, in wicker, while a flower-shaped backpack was a new addition to the designer’s menagerie of accessories.
The G7 leaders may have called the death of the necktie, but not on Browne’s watch. Worn slightly loosened, for more of a relaxed look, they look right again, in a throwback ’90s way. Maybe the world needs women to wear the neckties, so to speak.
Women’s now represents 40 percent of Thom Browne’s business, and this collection was another step forward. Bringing the clothes to the street (or the club colonnade), gave them another degree of real-world accessibility, while positioning the Thom Browne American tweed in the neighborhood of the French luxury houses.