For resort 2023, Zuhair Murad was thinking about nature and how every sensation is magnified, particularly after being cooped up.
Given the woman he designs for is a force of nature herself, Murad made encountering her a sensory experience filled with the swishing of taffeta, tinkling of beaded fringes, glinting of ornaments and fluttering of chiffon.
Silhouettes navigated the Murad playbook breezily: a bevy of goddess gowns, slinky sheaths, leg-baring numbers and the odd daywear choice. Their vivid hues, from the bracing green of new shoots to the changing pink and orange hues of an idyllic sunset, turned painterly when referencing the works of abstract Italian painter Carla Accardi and American artist Virginia Jaramillo.
Elsewhere, daring cutouts bared the side of waists or the underbust on demure lace dresses. Straps crisscrossed over bodices. A sharply cut suit was held shut by punk-looking rings, while one slinky number, made of bejeweled netting, was meant to be worn over a body suit.
Those pointed to a more youthful edge and completed the image of a woman ready to seize the moment, especially if that moment is a glamorous cocktail hour.