Malene Oddershede Bach’s starting point for spring was the science fiction film “Annihilation” in which a biologist, played by Natalie Portman, signs up for a top-secret expedition into a sinister area called “The Shimmer,” where creepy things happen because the rules of nature don’t apply.
It was a dark inspiration that seemed out of step with her polished lineup of sophisticated clothes, but the thing underscoring it all was shimmer — geddit? This was Malene Oddershede Bach’s first appearance on the London Fashion Week schedule for the designer, who emerged from the Fashion Scout platform and is known for her feminine aesthetic and opulent fabrications.
The alien form of Icelandic poppies in bud inspired the collection’s beautifully rendered fil coupé jacquards and prints. They were used in a few cream gowns, one strapless, with subtle metallic threads adding a pearlescent sheen. Poppies also were printed on a cool raincoat in transparent black plastic.
The otherwise grown-up collection also had a few streetwear pieces: an oversize black bomber worn with straight-leg trousers, and sweatshirts embroidered with poppies to spell out “MOB.” But what stood out were the fun little party dresses in pastel-hued bobbly jacquard. One off-the-shoulder number, in pale lilac, had frills that ran around the shoulders and cascaded in a wave down the front; a strapless dress in a silvery tone had a va-va-voom fluted hem, and a glistening ice blue camisole dress with little ruffles around the bra panels hit the right balance between sexy and sweet.
Also worthy of mention: the bucket bags that sat in neat brass box bases.