Matty Bovan’s ladies don’t exactly travel light, what with their skyscraper hats made from pots and pans, kitchen utensils and feather dusters, and corset dresses made from crochet layers, big puffs of tulle and colored ribbons. Dressed in layered skirts bigger than Scarlett O’Hara’s, his models were two-legged carnival floats — albeit ones who accessorized with Coach bags.
Bovan said he took his inspiration from the Eighties filmmaker Derek Jarman and wanted to telegraph a message of “hyper nature.” He thought it would be fun to bombard people with texture in an age of mass information and overload. The dresses were a delight — if rough around the edges and utterly unwearable — with their crinolines, webs of flower crochet, string bikini tops, tangles of string and shiny foil fabrics.
The sleeves on bolero jackets were like giant cocoons that were dotted with what looked like bits of broken glass, tulle and string. Knits, meanwhile, came bright and tight and digitally patterned and layered, in chaotic mixes. The whole show was upbeat — and student-y — the sort of exuberant collection that London is known for, but which still needs some serious fine-tuning before it can go commercial.
Bovan is well on his way. It was quite an accomplishment to have Vivienne Westwood as a backstage guest, trumpeting Bovan as a proper punk within hours of him launching an exclusive Coach x Matty Bovan collaboration, complete with the Coach signature print, on Matchesfashion.com.
Nothing wrong with thinking big.