For her first solo presentation, Supriya Lele reworked traditional elements of Indian dress through a modern lens.

The British-Indian designer has always been using her multicultural heritage to define her aesthetic. This season she looked back at an old family album that captures her parents’ earlier years in India, melding those images with her own teenage memories of growing up in British suburbia — and her current affection for ath-leisure.

This mash-up of references was loosely translated in the collection, in the form of knitted bras, shiny silk tops and layered dresses that were reminiscent of ornamental saris. They were paired with pieces that had a more modern flair, such as oversize trenchcoats, cycling shorts and skinny tracksuit bottoms. It made for an appealing visual contrast and an interesting new take on the active trend.

Among the highlights were minidresses featuring layers of shiny orange or pink silk-chiffon fabrics, and an embellished, draped top, created using recycled saris.

“It’s just about melding all those references together and trying to create something modern. I’m into sportswear right now, so it was important to incorporate that into the collection and contrast those really soft, feminine drapes with tougher elements,” Lele said. “The clothes have to look real for women.”

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