There were some heavy concepts underpinning this punchy, neon-bright collection, with creative director Giuliano Calza imagining a day when all the computers crash and society has to look back and appreciate the old way of doing things. He worked a bit of dystopia in there, too, with a few “Blade Runner”-style videos and a show set with Greek columns clad in green plastic garbage bags. A collaboration with Pokémon gave the palette and patterns a cartoonish feel.
Anxiety about the future did nothing to dent Calza’s optimism, so the collection was wearable and fun, from the short kilt skirt suits and the striped cotton dresses that glistened with a plastic coating to the printed babydoll ones with neon straps. Even a camouflage boiler suit sparkled with a bright-pink flower pattern. Cutouts of bunny faces adorned the tops of cartoonish yellow and blue lace-up boots, while a lineup of ribbed knitwear came in orange, pink and green highlighter brights.
“We’re a young group here — we’re all under 30 — and I wanted to talk to people our age about the future and get them thinking about plastics, water shortage and the environment. Full sustainability is impossible, and I wanted this show to be a wake-up call,” said an exuberant Calza, whose label is in expansion mode. GCDS, which was founded in 2015, has a shop in Milan and is now mulling a unit in London where it will likely land soon on Albemarle Street in Mayfair.