There was a tiny shrub timidly growing out from the tiles on the catwalk of the Jil Sander show, which was hosted inside a former factory producing Milanese typical panettone Christmas cakes in the Northern area of Milan. The presence of that shrub was accidental and spontaneous — the force of nature fighting against human constructions — but it seemed to symbolize that powerful feminine vein, which was fermenting underneath the androgynous attitude of Lucie and Luke Meier’s collection.

In keeping with the aesthetic established for the brand by its founder Jil Sander, the silhouettes were minimal and rigorous. There were plenty of graphic shirts showing utilitarian pockets worn with coordinated pants, jackets with maxi geometric details at the cuffs, zippered vests and manipulated sartorial blazers. But then, a plissé micro skirt here, an hourglass shape there, a softer touch emerged among the overall austerity. A loose sweater embellished with a patch printed with an arty drawing featured a side slit, a dress with a severe bodice showed a girly balloon short bottom and another long tunic revealed an asymmetric plunging neckline.

While a dynamic, sporty vibe was introduced via a maxi Windbreaker with a Nineties’ feel and a fluid trenchcoat with a shirt construction, there was a discreet romanticism in the crochet black-and-white separates and dresses, while the closing look, an elegant frock enriched with graphic cutouts epitomized the essential, unfussy sophistication of the lineup. One which might look cold at the first sight, yet highly covetable one second after.

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