The company famous for its high-low mix of fur and old Army coats and jackets dialed down the fluff for spring, and put the focus on military shapes and symbols and light fabrics such as silk and nylon. It was a compact, elegant collection featuring a chic moiré silk bomber in Army green and a host of T-shirts, some with thick, raggedy-edged ribbons zigzagging down the front. Sandals, too, were adorned with distressed fabric and military-style medallions on the front. A print made from medallions, medals and ceremonial ribbons wound its way around the collection, landing on a shirt dress with a dropped waist and a pair of filmy short shorts, while a colored camouflage pattern spilled over tissue-thin anoraks and a long pleated viscose skirt.

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