The bulk of Calvin Luo’s spring collection balanced structured tailoring with feminine accents. He was inspired by the 2008 French movie “Les femmes de l’ombre,” based on the life of Lise de Baissac, an agent of the Special Operations Executive during World War II. Luo found her to be a pioneer of femininity who concealed strength behind glamorous attire.

He sent out a slew of clean tailoring with little updates — pencil skirts with cutouts to reveal dresses underneath, button-downs with seams that shaped the body, and blazers set with delicate lace around the bust. The sharp structure of origamilike sleeves was a bit too kitsch for casualwear, but the boxy nature of an oversized shirt styled over little shorts was modern and cool. Looks worked best when spare, like a tiny knit tucked into jeans with graphic cuffs, or a tonal gray outfit with built-in support at the bust. Luo has the creative juices of an eager young talent and we’d like to see him push more subversive elements next time.

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