Theory’s concept of the urban uniform was cut with a softened hand by Francesco Fucci in his second outing for the brand. Presented in a cozy off-white gallery space where models intermingled in a manner of organized chaos, there was an artful quality to the spare, precisely constructed silhouettes and muted palette.
He played with men’s wear concepts like tailoring and structure, injecting a sensual ease so that items like a beige jacket or jumpsuit draped loosely away from the body. It harkened to his childhood growing up in the south of Italy, where summer afternoons were lazy and time passed slowly. What’s more relaxed than free-flowing semisheer dresses or familiar thin knits and fluid pants?
Fucci injected nostalgic emotion that grounded the collection in real life. “I like something romantic,” he said during the presentation. “Romanticism of summer mixed with men’s wear and sportswear. My recipe is very simple. I’m like an artisan.” His proportions demonstrated a youthful sophistication as well — the simplicity of a big shirt over a long skirt; loose shorts under an equally easy shirt; a flowy white coat with a tasteful display of skin, or baggy pants styled under a long skirt for a play on layering. It was a widely appealing balance of comfort, sensuality and confidence.