Since Azzedine Alaïa passed away unexpectedly last year, his design team has focused on remaining as faithful as possible to the couturier, who famously ignored show seasons and staged catwalk displays when he felt like it.
Some of his couture creations, originally shown between 2010 and 2015, are available by special order directly in the brand’s stores.
Since last season, the label also offers faithful reproductions of vintage designs under the Editions ready-to-wear label. For spring, they include an hourglass denim blazer from 1990, and a cropped white cotton poplin shirt from 1985.
The main collection reprised some of them — the white shirt, for example, came in a slightly longer version — and riffed on house codes such as cotton eyelet sundresses, raffia-fringed knits and ultra-fine ankle-length knit dresses. The timeless approach makes sense — at $4,000 apiece, the knit gowns are naturally investment pieces.
A capsule collection of dresses, T-shirts, bags, scarves and shoes featured a heart and ribbon motif lifted from Alaïa’s spring 1992 collection. Inscribed with the phrase “Mon Coeur est à Papa,” it refers to the nickname that models including Naomi Campbell used for Alaïa, whom they saw as a father figure.