Esteban Cortázar gets to work on his spring collection when his mind is fresh from a monthlong holiday in the summer. He relaxes, reflects, appreciates nature. “I go to a place like Ibiza where people watch the sunset and they literally clap afterward, it’s a thing,” Cortázar said backstage. “I love that so much, and I know it’s a cliché to reference a sunset, but it’s one of the most beautiful things we live in a daily basis.”

What wasn’t cliché was his collection. Cortázar worked within the parameters of sexy, summer dressing but populated the lineup with unusual details and decorative effects. Not all of them worked — for example, a sheer black slip dress with a little harness of pink fringe underlining the breasts, and a black off-shoulder top layered with a leather corset with cups that looked like half beach balls — but those that did were warm, inviting and very pretty. Pairing silk jacquard jogging shorts with a dusty pink crinkled silk robe worn open over a matching shirt gave a romantic, elegant summer look a casual, playful element that wasn’t cheesy. Robes and capes in ombré sunset colors were highlights, as were tops, dresses and tailoring with trailing cutaway details that amplified classic fits with a little breezy drama.

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