With the venue’s walls lined with silver fringe curtains, and a sea of silver balloons hugging the ceiling — in place for the after party feting the launch of a capsule makeup collection with L’Oréal Paris — Isabel Marant was in her element in this upbeat collection.
The collection started from the idea of the end of the Seventies and beginning of the Eighties, she explained backstage: “The end of the Studio 54 era mixed with the beginning of hip-hop. For me, it was a stress-free, joyful time, with all these mixes of people: artists, actresses and kids from the suburbs. It’s a period I’ve always loved,” she said.
The quilted patchwork denim jackets and boiler suits, paisley print ruched dresses with spaghetti straps, embroidered peasant blouses, scrunchy boots and fringed macramé bags stayed true to her signature boho side, while a sexy disco attitude came through in the metallic leather and lamé minidresses and silver sequined pants, the latter sported by the designer herself.
The overall vibe was sophisticated but relaxed, with the designer working casual, grungy elements like a tartan shirt into the layers. Another look paired a stone-washed gray denim pant with a silver lamé top and rhinestone belt.
The shapes were full-on Eighties, riffing on the era’s inventive denim cuts, with big square shoulders and V-constructions on the upper body.
Mixing little couture touches and a chilled attitude, the collection telegraphed a summery vacation mood, and a sense of fun.