Transition periods tend to be awkward. With a change of guard pending at Joseph and the collection’s designing force, Louise Trotter, departed since the summer, the challenge for the clothing was to hold one’s attention for a brief spell. There it was, the discrete lineup expressed through a muted color palette — the softest white, the palest camel and a rather faded blue, with only a few pieces in pastel mint and bright pink to punctuate the lineup. These were the colors applied to ultralight trenchcoats, clean suit coats in a discrete bouclé tweed and squarely cut shirts, embellished with extra panels and pockets.
Trotter’s lingering touch at the house was seen in the mix of masculine and utilitarian accents woven into an ultimately very feminine collection. Flaps, belts with leather-covered buckles and sleeve cuffs straps came as luxurious details, drawing in the fluid Eighties silhouettes, meant for layering. There were also deep pockets with drawstrings, described as apron detailing, worn on light, white trousers as well as on a pair of red leather shorts.
Contrasting with the intricate tailoring, an airy, white peasant blouse was gathered at the wrists and sported a generous hood while the hemlines of flowing dresses dropped to the floor, including a silk, jersey T-shirt crepe dress with pockets cut into the side seams.
The requisite pause following Trotter’s nine year tenure, it felt like a fleeting moment. Well, it is: Susana Clayton takes up the position Monday, with the fall collection scheduled as her first, while the new chief executive officer Barbara Campos starts in November.