Moved by current events, Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof were out to empower women this season with a collection of sharply bulked-up shoulders — superhero style — shimmery armor and body-covering lengths. They kept it sexy but added ample layers of protection, often in the form of wide, cape-like sleeves with slits to allow movement. With less exuberance than is customary for the pair, the collection still had personality.
The designers reined in the color scheme, opening up the show with a muted khaki boiler suit, paired with colorful, beaded stiletto boots with a sports-sock stripe at the top. Sleeves were cinched on the wrists a short coat dress embroidered with hologram sequins; the matching bucket hat added extra cover. The pair piled on bands of tightly gathered material — a form of bullet belt? — to make a skirt in one case and crisscrossed across a chest in another, paired with oddly cut shorts. There was jacquard camouflage as well, with pale blues and pinks made into a long dress as well as jeans paired with a silver top. Shimmery boxing shorts were worn with a matching jersey cape coat that skimmed the floor.
It was meant to be about “courage and strength and shoulders and don’t mess with me kind of attitude,” Talbot said. “We just wanted to give women this empowerment through their clothes.”
Runhof chimed in: “But at the same time we wanted to do respectful clothes,” he said. “Sexy, but not as an object.”