“It’s taking the idea of classic tailored men’s fabrics and infusing it into the women’s,” said Thom Browne, who also indulged in another of his favorite pastimes: perverting proportions. His starting point was a layered gray suit pairing an oversize classic sack jacket with a sack trouser reconfigured into a trompe l’oeil dress and elongated cardigan.

Spins included a gray jacket with shrunken volumes layered over an ankle-grazing white shirt, with a pleated skirt pulled up to create a bustier effect.

Playing with the world of classic sportswear while staying true to the tailored part, his eccentric twists on American preppy included a crafty pink and green look in a patchwork of frayed repp-stripe silks washed to give a unique rumpled finish and embroidered with appliqué fir trees and a small dog running around the hem.

The duck served as the witty mascot of an underlying hunting theme, also used on bag shapes, surfacing as all-over embroidered motifs on both day suits and Browne’s take on black tie: a supercool three-piece black suit with odd proportions, finished with tulle-trimmed duck embroideries with elongated white shirt cuffs and a bow tie completing the look.

Other highlights included the textured tweed suits with matching coats and footwear; tonal looks mixing Donegal tweed and repp stripes, and an inside-out striped jacket with a sheer gauzy layer revealing the inner workings of its construction, again opening up the codes of men’s tailoring to women’s.

By  on December 5, 2018

“It’s taking the idea of classic tailored men’s fabrics and infusing it into the women’s,” said Thom Browne, who also indulged in another of his favorite pastimes: perverting proportions. His starting point was a layered gray suit pairing an oversize classic sack jacket with a sack trouser reconfigured into a trompe l’oeil dress and elongated cardigan.

Spins included a gray jacket with shrunken volumes layered over an ankle-grazing white shirt, with a pleated skirt pulled up to create a bustier effect.

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