“It’s taking the idea of classic tailored men’s fabrics and infusing it into the women’s,” said Thom Browne, who also indulged in another of his favorite pastimes: perverting proportions. His starting point was a layered gray suit pairing an oversize classic sack jacket with a sack trouser reconfigured into a trompe l’oeil dress and elongated cardigan.
Spins included a gray jacket with shrunken volumes layered over an ankle-grazing white shirt, with a pleated skirt pulled up to create a bustier effect.
Playing with the world of classic sportswear while staying true to the tailored part, his eccentric twists on American preppy included a crafty pink and green look in a patchwork of frayed repp-stripe silks washed to give a unique rumpled finish and embroidered with appliqué fir trees and a small dog running around the hem.
The duck served as the witty mascot of an underlying hunting theme, also used on bag shapes, surfacing as all-over embroidered motifs on both day suits and Browne’s take on black tie: a supercool three-piece black suit with odd proportions, finished with tulle-trimmed duck embroideries with elongated white shirt cuffs and a bow tie completing the look.
Other highlights included the textured tweed suits with matching coats and footwear; tonal looks mixing Donegal tweed and repp stripes, and an inside-out striped jacket with a sheer gauzy layer revealing the inner workings of its construction, again opening up the codes of men’s tailoring to women’s.