Uma Wang blew the dust off a bygone era and out sprang the vibrant hues. “It’s the first time I tried color,” she said, noting that while she loves black, she was after a bit of cheer this season.
Silhouettes offered another surprise, as she tucked simpler forms of fluidity into her habitually more masculine lineup. Those pieces were still there: loosened suit jackets and peasant-blouse-style capes, lots of layering and straps, carefully knotted fabric belts and a few paint splatters and stains.
The audience was eased into the patterns gradually, starting with an earthy toned rose print on a flowing dress. But then the rose turned bright orange, set against a copper background. The first dress in this material was sleeveless, gathered at the top, and flowing to the ground. The same cut was offered in stripes that touched the model’s feet. Shoes carried the same pattern.
Citing influences from Africa — the stripes were from Morocco — and France, England, India, China and Italy, the designer worked a mix. “I don’t want to stick with one culture,” she said, although, being Chinese meant she focused on her own at times.
The results were intriguing, and this season’s lineup felt lighter and more feminine — with a welcome touch of cheer.