Name: Mitsuru Okazaki
Main message: Yohji Yamamoto alum Mitsuru Okazaki’s brand is only in its second season, but it is already establishing itself as one to watch during Tokyo Fashion Week. The designer is adept at creating unexpected shapes out of simple textiles, such as the denim skirts topped with petal-like layers or the white pants covered in pyramid-shaped puckers that he sent down his spring runway. He also did interesting things with concealed zippers, placing them on balloon sleeves and pant legs so that when zipped open they looked like multiple slits, sometimes in contrasting colors. Diagonal stripes and colorblocking gave movement to otherwise simple tapered trousers and button-down shirts.
The result: The collection was both cohesive and inventive, as well as casual and real-world friendly, making it a strong second effort. And unlike many designers who show in Tokyo, Okazaki demonstrated his ability to self-edit.