It was clear that Eftychia Karamolegkou has been reflecting on the state of the world and adapting her work. Her up-and-coming label has so far been known for its tailoring and for catering to working women, but with the world of work completely turned upside down, the Greek-born designer wanted to rethink what really constitutes officewear these days and create a new business dress code fit for the hybrid world we now live in.
THE LOOK: Trousers were often replaced with laid-back Bermuda shorts and miniskirts; playful Lurex knits took the place of formal shirting; and pencil skirts were paired with casual, logo T-shirts you could also wear to a rave. The look was still sleek, with loose pinstripe suits and perfectly oversize blazers still a significant part of the lineup. But by bringing casualwear into the mix, Karamolegkou created a new, more relaxed feel that’s better suited to the current moment.
QUOTE OF NOTE: “It’s still the same woman and the brand is still about businesswear, but the pandemic freed me up in a way because I no longer have to think about a specific setting. You can now dress as you wish, you can turn up to work as a raver and get away with it. So I could be more eclectic this season and express my own taste a little more: for example the T-shirts and wraparound skirts are what I’m always wearing when I’m working at home. There’s more of a nonchalance in this context,” said Karamolegkou.
KEY PIECES: A silver drop-waist skirt, imitating the effortlessness of a pareo and inspired by the designer’s own work uniform, was among the highlights, as were the metallic, open-back knits and fringed denim trousers.
TAKEAWAY: Karamolegkou mixed different dress codes and aesthetics to offer a compelling new take on post-lockdown working uniforms. It was also refreshing to see a collection that felt grounded and little more somber, instead of pushing the narrative of post-lockdown optimism and celebration. “We need time to process what happened, not go to the other extreme of toxic positivity,” the designer mused.