When this past summer a huge fire burnt hectares and hectares of woods, killing hundreds of animals in the heart of his native island, Sardinia, Antonio Marras couldn’t just sit back.
After exploring the volcanic area last August, he returned there earlier this month with his team and a group of models to film his digital runway, showcasing the women’s and men’s spring 2022 collections.
“It was extremely painful, but at the same time dramatically fascinating.…It was like walking on the moon, on a desolate land, among incredible colors. You could really feel the pain, but at the same time the strength of nature, a desire of re-birth,” the designer said.
That hope is expressed in a big part of the lineup via an arty pattern of roses that seem to be blooming from a burnt canvas. “During the lockdown, I took the white fabrics that the seamstresses put on the ironing boards when they prepare the prototypes and I started painting and embroidering them,” said Marras, revealing the origin of that floral pattern, which he also used for wallpaper presented at Milan Design Week.
In keeping with the designer’s signature style, the motif figured as patchworks decorating a wide range of items, spanning from cardigans to a lovely minidress that he dipped into tea to create a vintage-like effect.
Tulle and lace encrusted with embroideries and appliques heightened the allure of multilayer frocks, but also of more mannish blazers fastened with ribbons. Lingerie details were incorporated into the see-through slipdresses, while the brand’s signature military parkas came in black versions with leopard inserts.
To further symbolize a sense of re-birth amid the mostly neutral palette, Marras introduced some lively green shades, including the emerald hue he used for a men’s suit embroidered with collage-like inserts, as well as vibrant floral patterns rendered in pink and red.
As always, the designer employed an abundance of patterns and treatments to craft special pieces, infused with a strong identity and an artistic, artisanal quality.