Gabriele Colangelo delivered another chic collection hinged on precise tailoring and artisanal details, a combination that he always turns into wearable pieces with a luxe feel.
The look: Lean sartorial essentials infused with a crafty soul. Metallic circled elements were covered with thin leather threads to form a recurrent motif that was both decorative and functional in the construction of blazers and coats. Leather bands were also intricately woven to create meshes for slipdresses and revealing patterns for pant hems; pleated and overprint fabrics added sculptural effects to elongated tops, pants and frocks while extra-long fringes swished from sleeves and trenchcoats, instantly inviting one to twirl around.
Quote of note: “This season I didn’t have a precise, artistic inspiration or reference in mind, I just wanted to celebrate Italian craftsmanship and the beauty of handmade garments,” Colangelo said.
Key pieces: Jacquard tops and pants printed with dégradé color effects ranging from chocolate to emerald and treated to create long fringes enhancing movement; a camel leather coat with geometric cut outs outlined by delicate embroideries; a textured, pleated tank dress in a plush nude color worn over matching pants.
Takeway: Season after season, Colangelo continues to coherently build on his sartorial aesthetic, which might not generate fashion hype but is distinctive, grounded and desirable.