Alessandro Dell’Acqua mixed glitz and casualness — and many other of his “obsessions and temptations,” as he put it — in a coed collection that channeled a much more youthful and carefree vibe compared to his previous efforts.
The look: Dressed up ‘90s skaters. Crochet knitwear, cropped hoodies and palm prints revealed under layers of tulle or in the lining of blazer jackets worn as backpacks pointed to California, but Dell’Acqua glammed his crew up here and there with a generous dose of sequins, fringes and marabou feathers for an unexpected clash.
Quote of note: “I’ve never believed that to yield to a temptation equaled to do something that shouldn’t be done. On the contrary, I’ve always considered it as experimenting with new stuff because for me this is a way to open up to unexpected possibilities,” Dell’Acqua said about freely mixing references and techniques.
Key pieces: Knitwear was central, reaffirming the designer’s penchant for the category. It came under different forms and shapes, ranging from crochet pants and cropped sweaters to revealing dresses in combination with chiffon inserts and feathers. Among the handmade knits and flashy glitz of fringed frocks and crystal embellishments, a suit crafted from six layers of tulle and rendered in the designer’s signature nude tone stood out in its simplicity while staying true to the ‘90s aesthetic so dear to Dell’Acqua.
Takeaway: Dell’Acqua was brave in offering a new spin on his design signatures, but a more cautious approach in yielding to temptation could have benefited the collection.