For spring, designer Alejandra Alonso Rojas brought forth exquisite, artisanal flourishes and a casually luxurious elan in a collection that was not only her strongest to date but also a heartfelt tribute to her great-great-aunt, Africa Lamas.
Lamas, one of the first female pilots in Spain — in 1931, influenced Alonso Rojas to embrace new utilitarian details and natural elements modernly on a colorful collection inspired by the lush landscapes the designer envisioned her great-great-aunt to have once admired from above.
The look: Effortlessly elegant feminine silhouettes rooted in standout craftsmanship.
Quote of note: “She [Lamas] was a badass, amazing woman!” Alonso Rojas stated during her spring collection presentation. “I started with looking at pictures of her on her plane, wearing aviator clothes.…Then I started finding beautiful aerial views of landscapes. The whole color palette started coming together through the blue skies, Moroccan doors.…With that, I started thinking of wanting to use natural dyes, but how can I do it using natural elements, ones around where you land the plane? So I started collecting stones and used them for a hand-dyed Shibori technique.”
Key pieces: Utility-meets-handcraft in silhouettes ranging from a sweeping, hand-dyed parachute gown to rich suede and leather fashions patchworked with crocheted silk yarns. Also, colorful leather aviation caps and tool pocket belt bags; parachute strap details; silver-plated brass accents and accessories (a standout statement belt) in collaboration with jewelry designer Monica Sordó. Elsewhere, dip-dyed, Shibori and solid silk and satin suiting and easy dresses; sexy, hand-knit bralettes, bodysuits and slinky dresses; signature fringed and crochet sweaters, and great new nubby camel and elastane machine knit styles.
The takeaway: Alonso Rojas’ ability to redefine elegance through artisanal, thoughtful, wearable design continued to shine through her spring collection.
In addition to a new collection (which was displayed, too, as though “flying through the air”), Alonso Rojas is extending the lease of her 87 Franklin Street, TriBeCa presentation space (likely for the next month) and converting it into a concept storefront featuring shoppable fall styles and a flower shop. (The space’s lower level will also be used as a showroom throughout market.)