After two decades away, Los Angeles designer Kevan Hall is back on the runway schedule, and plotting new growth for his brand.
Hall presented his spring 2022 collection at NYFW on Fifth, to a crowd of nearly 500, including fellow designers Byron Lars and Sergio Hudson, as well as supporters from the Black Design Collective he founded to give mentorship and scholarships to young designers.
“People outside could actually watch the show through the windows because it’s open glass all around, so that was really cool,” the designer said during a studio visit last week.
The inspiration: 1930s art world darling Christian Berard, who worked with Schiaparelli and Chanel, illustrated for Vogue and collaborated on interiors with Jean-Michel Frank and Alberto Giacometti. “He had a great painterly hand, and in his interiors he did for the Guerlain Institute in 1989, he did trompe l’oeil that I love,” Hall said. “He’s someone I come back to in my work again and again.”
That translated to modern feminine silhouettes with playful tromp l’oeil, painterly print and petal cutout details for dressed-up days and nights, in a light color palette of alabaster, coral, lavender, celadon and fuchsia.
Quote of note: “This was a very different collection for me. I did not want to show all evening, I wanted to show the breadth of the workroom, taking my client from day to evening to gala to red carpet,” Hall said.
Key looks: Alabaster tromp l’oeil painted A-line shift, pants and cardigan jacket; salmon pink silk brushstroke cropped trench and trousers; fuchsia peony print draped gown; gold and azure blue sequin double strap cocktail dress; lavender floral bouquet embroidered halter top and silk taffeta cargo ball skirt; white cotton shirt and cerulean sequin skirt with wide vintage belt; nude tulle embroidered drama gown with turtleneck of feathers.
The takeaway: A welcome return for Hall, an industry vet with true design chops who had a stint at Halston before launching his namesake label in 2002. His thoughtful, polished lineup was a beautiful antidote to so much fashion branding hype.
And he already has big plans for next year, when he plans to launch home accessories and his own Made in Italy belts, handbags and shoes, and show in New York again in February.