The look: Designer Ryuhei Oomaru continued to manipulate patterns to create silhouettes that may look classic at first glance, but are actually unconventional and unique. His expertise is evident in pieces created from fabrics that drape and create volume at the same time. While much of the collection is centered around tailoring, an ongoing collaboration with artist Peter Miles allowed Oomaru to explore his more casual and colorful side by transferring Miles’ work onto pieces such as hoodies and shorts.
Key pieces: A cape shoulder overcoat with a rectangular collar features a clean drape and natural underarm openings while a trouser with no side seams or waist belt loops with cargo pockets on the back offers a new take on a familiar piece. The colorful Peter Miles prints worked best on a one-seam hoodie with a tubular drawstring, bandless short and lightweight parka, and there was also a shirt jacket made from one pattern with a notched collar and shirting sleeves. Oomaru revisited his interpretation of a double-breasted suit with a drawstring trouser whose construction and drape made for a relaxed mood.
The takeaway: Oomaru’s history as a patternmaker and his time spent at Comme des Garçons and Donna Karan allows him to create intricate pieces that are sophisticated and modern.