“Creating the contrast of fragility and strength, structure and softness,” Nicky Zimmermann said of her spring collection over Zoom from her home in Australia, adding that dancers had become her muse of the season.
Their elegance and fluidity of movement inspired floaty silhouettes while an uptick of city-appropriate garments played to off-duty looks. The collection upheld the feminine, playful spirit upon which Zimmermann built her label (like a blush wrap-top with long, ethereal skirt with ballet dancer splashed across, or pretty, printed dresses with voluminous, tiered layers and sleeves and laser cut petals), but spring also offered a more edgy look. Liquid metallic (or cream) training pants in weighty viscose were paired with intricate and elaborate tulle tops (some of which incorporated intertwined pearl and hardware details); feminine frocks were toughened up with fishnets and combat boots, and lingerie and corsetry tops and dresses contrasted sleek tailored styles. In the past, the designer had grounded more fanciful, girly tops with denim; her new pairings felt fresh as ever for spring.
“Our girl — she is sexy and in-tune with her femininity but she has strength and is an opinionated person who knows what she likes. Being able to bring that kind of strength to feminine pieces is fun,” she said.
The designer’s seasonal florals also came with a more graphic feel — she collaborated with photographer Pierre Toussaint and florist Saskia Havekes to capture the blooms before digitally printing them atop new dreamy dresses. Meanwhile, a poem by author Sophie Lee’s was turned into a graffiti style print on full skirts, paired with little bra tops and bodysuits. The juxtaposition came across exactly how Zimmermann and her team aspired it to, offering just enough signature femininity with a modern spin.
“Zimmermann always has a hint of sexiness, but it’s never overt; there’s always a touch of fun somewhere as well. That’s important, no matter what direction we’re going, that these elements come through.”