Benjamin Benmoyal moved in a more commercial direction thanks to repurposed fabrics from LVMH’s Nona Source platform and recycled cotton, which he combined with his signature looks made from repurposed cassette tape in roomy forms inspired by his Moroccan roots.
The look: Benmoyal’s unmistakable silhouettes had a more genderless feel this season. They were also more fluid and luxurious, thanks to his integration of a wider range of materials, with his signature fringed caftans mingling with simpler pieces. These included wide linen pants, an off-white maxiskirt in a silk-linen blend with burgundy overstitching and cute over-vests in unique fabrics with side ties.
Quote of note: “I’m trying to find a balance between commercial and creative. Thanks to the commercial pieces, I can continue doing the more creative part,” said Benmoyal at the Sphere showroom, where he is presenting his collection.
Key pieces: New this season were a couple of boxy shirt and short combos made using reel-to-reel cassettes from the 1960s — sourced from the BBC and some featuring recordings from artists like The Rolling Stones and The Beatles — overstitched onto recycled lightweight linen to form graphic, shimmering stripes. Ecru denim jackets were made from recycled T-shirts, and were another addition to the offer.
Takeaway: Now that Benmoyal’s distinctive aesthetic and positioning are firmly established, he is expanding his vocabulary, and proving that his voice carries.