Over the past year, designer Hélène Timsit and her team at Mazarine started holding drawing sessions, first as a way to keep their creativity alive in lockdown and now for the pleasure of the exercise itself. That brought Timsit to think about the myth of Pygmalion, a sculptor who fell in love with his creation and saw it brought to life by the goddess Aphrodite, yielding a collection rife with sculptural shapes and references to “hands that create.”
The look: Believable “wearable sculptures,” where functional elements — buttons, covered seams or even textures — became the decorative features of Timsit’s contemporary silhouettes.
Quote of note: “With pencils and paper, we rediscovered the pleasure of giving birth to ideas and seeing those ideas come alive as we imagined them — or took a different route,” said designer Hélène Timsit, who juxtaposed handcrafted elements and ready-to-wear ideals in her designs.
Standout pieces: An asymmetric, draped column dress in a pleated pearlescent fabric with beaded lattice work on the back; a tea-length dress with fluttering cap sleeves in bronze sequins; and a bottle green silk khadi dress with a row of buttons tumbling down the spine. In the outerwear, a little chocolate-toned blouson that can be worn reversed, turning its covered seams into decorative piping; and a parka cut from a crinkled papery technical nylon and finished with a rope belt.
Takeaway: Mazarine’s separates and new spins on existing signatures, like the “puzzle” items made of irregular-shaped pieces, were solidly charming. But in a season where dressed-up daytime dominates, the more sophisticated looks did better justice to Timsit’s complex constructions.