It’s been an eventful year for Nina Ricci, which this spring closed its historic flagship boutique in Paris as it pivoted to a digital-first strategy and slashed its prices in order to make the collection more accessible. The brand is without a general manager, following the departure of Charlotte Tasset last month.
Against this backdrop, Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh delivered what may be their most personal collection since they joined the house in 2018. Their spring lineup was inspired by the ocean, a recurring theme for the pair, who grew up in the Caribbean and during lockdown set up a coral farm in Curaçao.
The look: Tailored jackets in hybrid constructions were paired with colorful layered jersey pieces and sun-faded prints for a city-meets-seaside aesthetic.
Quote of note: “We felt more free than ever to really be ourselves and express what we want to express in the brand, because we feel like Nina Ricci is a house [that] should speak much more about the time we’re in,” Herrebrugh said. The collection film is set against spectacular images of crashing waves and collapsing icebergs, while some of the models were filmed underwater. “We see the girls as mermaids, as almost guardians of the water,” Herrebrugh explained, adding that they hope to follow up the digital presentation with concrete action to protect the ocean, in partnership with Puig, the Spanish company that owns the Ricci label.
Key pieces: Sleeveless jackets with details inspired by wetsuits, like oversize zippers running down the back, graphic cutout details, and sheer detachable sleeves; hooded bodysuits, bandeau tops and gauzy wrap cardigans; jumbo fishnet tops, dresses and pants; terry-cloth sleeveless suit jackets and pants.
Takeaway: After a couple of transitional seasons, Botter and Herrebrugh appear to have found their groove back at Ricci. The vibrant colors and confident constructions gave the collection an upbeat, yet polished appeal.