Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient added touches of softness to their deconstructed world, where sci-fi meets sexy with overtones of punk. Back on the runway this season, the Berlin-based duo offered soft ribbed knits made with an atelier in Athens for their signature strapped pieces, and also added swimwear to the collection. Prints were designed with artist Lucie Stahl, her abstract pictures of flowers and cornrow braid motifs adding atmosphere to the mesh designs in the collection.
The look: Ottolinger’s body-hugging deconstructed pieces, with their dangling strap details, counter-balanced more dramatic three-dimensional looks that used corsetry wiring to create loops around the body. These were stretched over with fabric, resembling the rings around a faraway planet. Elsewhere, tailored jackets were twinned with buttock-skimming mini shorts, particularly striking in silvery faux leather.
Quote of note: “It’s really dark and moody like a thunderstorm,” Gadient said backstage before the show.
Standout pieces: The barely there soft ribbed knits provided a softer canvas for the Berlin-based duo’s signature looks, while asymmetric denim jackets, offset and with a single arm, had a streetwise edge. Trailing tailored coats added further touches of drama, whether for wearing aboard a space ship or on the street.
Takeaway: Bösch and Gadient’s futuristic universe was a good fit for the digital realm, translating well on a screen these past two seasons. But seeing them on the runway once more made their real-life appeal — and craftsmanship going beyond the purely visual — all the more apparent.