What do you get when you combine ladies who lunch, surfer style and being a mother of five? Prune Goldschmidt.
The look: Now in the third season for her eponymous label, Goldschmidt looked to the 1970s, playing with elongated bourgeois silhouettes with touches of irony. These came by way of tone-on-tone textile rosettes adorning blazers, or a Kama Sutra motif, worked in pastels as the lining of a tuxedo jacket or an allover print, and stripes and hardware nodding to a seafaring lifestyle. Goldschmidt likes to present total looks and highlight the waist, with matching separates and ladylike dresses, which she developed in mimosa yellow or royal blue this season.
Quote of note: “I recreated a wardrobe for a 2.0 version of Truman Capote’s swans,” Goldschmidt explained. “I love to play with bourgeois codes, but without being stuffy; I want it to be classy and fun.”
Key pieces: Alongside her impeccable tailoring, ruffle-collared shirts and elegant silk silhouettes, Goldschmidt offered up quirkier styles including a jumpsuit inspired by a wetsuit, crafted in piqué cotton, with a plum print taken from botanical drawings, and high-top straw hats codeveloped with Maison Michel. Nods to childhood — as well as being a mom, Goldschmidt used to design children’s wear for Sonia Rykiel — came by way of grown-up versions of twirly little-girl dresses and the marine stripes and raincoat yellow of the preppy French-kid wardrobe.
Takeaway: There is no shortage of labels offering up interpretations of French luxury, but Prune Goldschmidt manages to do it with a distinctive twist. While it wasn’t all to everyone’s taste — that erotic print had raised a few eyebrows, she admitted — there were plenty of appealing wardrobe solutions, top-notch fabrications and the right dose of statement pieces.