Yukiko Ode and Hideaki Yoshihara’s deft melding of vintage military styles, modern tech fabrics and feminine draping has become a highlight of Tokyo Fashion Week, and their latest offering was no exception. In a prerecorded film, models traversed a cavernous, warehouse-like space in beautifully constructed modern staples.
The look: This season’s collection had a softer, less utilitarian feel to it than some of their previous showings, and it employed many lightweight fabrics. There were many semi-sheer, crinkled dresses and pants, as well as chiffon blouses with puff sleeves. Crisper textiles were used in cropped, wide-sleeved tops, shirtdresses and calf-length skirts. Ode and Yoshihara chose a saturated turquoise as their accent color, selecting basic beiges, grays, navy and black to complement it. Throughout the collection they used lightweight Pertex fabrics that brought a technical edge to gathered detailing.
Standout pieces: The designers reinterpreted some classic outerwear, including a British Army riding coat from the 1990s, giving it voluminous sleeves and a relaxed silhouette. But it was the tailored jackets that stood out, streamlined with slit sleeves and sometimes a lack of lapels. Also of note were the slightly cropped, boxy tops with diagonal zippers at the neckline and extra-long, extra-wide sleeves.
Takeaway: The light, movement-friendly fabrics and generous use of gathering felt appropriate for spring, while the more tailored pieces were sleek and cool.