When it was announced that Junichi Abe would present a rare show in Tokyo as a part of Rakuten’s By R program that it initiated as the headlining sponsor of Tokyo Fashion Week, expectations were high. Abe did not disappoint, either with his collection or with the show’s production.
Audience members were told to arrive punctually at a busy train station in central Tokyo, but most didn’t immediately realize that they would also board a chartered city train, which would take them to a nearly empty station on the outskirts of the city. There, models paraded up and down the train, as well as along the platform. All maps and advertisements inside the train had also been removed and replaced with Kolor branded signs bearing phrases such as “where are we going?” and “it starts from here.”
The collection lived up to the brand’s name, with Abe mixing different colors and textures into looks that had a little bit of everything — from preppy to grunge to futuristic. A one-shouldered metallic silver frock was topped with a cropped, asymmetric turtleneck in bright crimson, and clear vinyl appeared as an accent on shoes and jacket collars.
Much of the collection looked to be better suited to fall than to spring: velour joggers with an oversize plaid blazer, layered cardigans in deep green and burgundy, and an extra-long coat with puff sleeves that was cut into strips below the waist. But there were also long, tiered dresses and skirts for women, and boxy polo shirts with contrast collars for men. Sheer chiffon or ruffle-detailed blouses, and a short-sleeved red knit T-shirt with a sky blue lace back lent a cool femininity to the borrowed-from-the-boys look, and men’s tailored jackets worn with track pants gave a preppy polish to modern streetwear.