For her second showing during Tokyo Fashion Week, Shin Mikage drew parallels between the 1920s and today, focusing in particular on Japan’s first modern architectural group, called Bunriha Kenchiku Kai. In her show notes, the designer said her collection would “elicit ‘urban and rural’ and ‘sculptural architecture,’ which are two key characteristics of Bunriha. Much like ‘a return to the art of architecture’ by Bunriha, this collection also illustrates the concept of ‘a return to the art of fashion.’”
Main message: Mikage showed genderless separates in contrasting textiles and mostly neutral tones, often employing asymmetric shapes and exaggerated cutouts. Sheer panels on trenchcoats, pleated wide-legged pants and textured jersey were offset by a blue and white printed fabric depicting country scenes and a rich green and gold jacquard. Suit jackets and shirts with contrast panels, new interpretations of the classic trenchcoat and one-shouldered mini capes stood out, while some of the circular cutouts felt hastily conceived and poorly executed.
The result: It was a solid effort by a fledgling designer, whose skill and creativity were evident. The handful of misses weren’t enough to detract from the more promising looks.