Shinsuke Nakano may be a newcomer to Tokyo Fashion Week but his experience includes a scholarship from and work at Alexander McQueen’s Sarabande Foundation, an undergraduate degree in art history, and two graduate degrees in fashion design from Central Saint Martins. He writes in his brand profile that he bases his designs on not only his knowledge of contemporary art and tailoring but also the lifestyles of his friends who are London-based creatives.
Main message: Tailoring indeed played a major role in Nakano’s spring collection, with the majority of looks riffing on four basic styles: a trouser suit, a calf-length coat, a tea-length dress and a button-up shirt. The clothes were simple and well constructed, in loose-fitting shapes that would stand up to a commute. But they also included some unique elements that set them apart from basics. Coats and shirts had a contrast envelope pocket tacked onto one side, while dresses and T-shirts had asymmetric collars with a long strap attached that could be used to switch them between a single shoulder panel and an off-kilter funnel neck. Most pieces were available in basic black and beige, but Nakano added pops of bright blue, pink, orange and green.
The result: The offering fit with Nakano’s objective and will surely appeal to creatives with an active lifestyle, but even as a capsule wardrobe it lacked variety, and some of the fits were off. Still, for a first-timer to fashion week, it was a cohesive grouping that showed a lot of potential.