Thirty-three hours for a knitted vest? Yes, if said vest is by Brunello Cucinelli, where knitwear becomes something else entirely, embroidered and treated to such an extent that it becomes a couture piece.
In the courtyard of Cucinelli’s expansive showroom and headquarters in Milan, crochet tops sparkled with sequins under the still strong September sun here and weightless silk tops were lit up by shiny and stylized floral or marine patterns. Mesh, knitted pants added a sensual, yet easy touch to the collection.
Lace effects delivered sophisticated transparencies, but there were also some intriguing rustic, 3D textures. The sartorial precision of Cucinelli’s sharp blazers was offset by an informal, bohemian touch and the brand’s exquisite manual craftsmanship, which, as such, made each garment unique.
Light played a key role in the spring collection, reflected thanks to the sequins or the metallic yarns and the shiny fabrics on an earthy palette of browns, from sand to cream.
After the pandemic, there is a renewed desire to explore, believes Cucinelli, and this collection responded to this need to be outdoors — or at elegant evening events since the clothes would not look out of place for an aperitif on a Capri terrace. Cucinelli spun feminine and masculine tension by juxtaposing cargo pants or a shorts, vest and jacket combo to long, fluid satin skirts, for example. Both looked Cucinelli through and through.