Daniele Calcaterra is among the unsung heroes of Milan. A veteran of the business and a master in tailoring, he spearheads a niche brand in which an audience looking for chic, quotidian designs could easily find a piece or two.
For spring 2023, the designer added a touch of eccentricity to its usual sober aesthetic. Inspired by the wind, he blew up the volumes of sartorial staples and cut the silhouettes of his precise tailoring wide open, as seen in the exaggerated proportions of jackets and extra-ample armholes of vests.
Cutouts added to the airy approach, but were outlined by sequins for a precious touch, while the ruched and draped textures of featherlight chiffon dresses and silk frocks further nodded to the breezy vibe.
Yet the central part of the lineup was not as convincing as the rest, with its heterogeneous sequence of a denim look, leather-like pieces and print attires. The former two deserved a further exploration, while the prints could have been nixed.