What a jolt of unbridled creativity, craft and inventiveness it was.
The Dolce & Gabbana-approved and supported Matty Bovan channeled childhood dreams midway between Tim Burton’s “Alice in Wonderland” and the decadent flamboyancy of the New Romantics, his penchant for maximalism out in force.
A strong cast — including Ashley Graham, Lea T and Elisabetta Dessy — traded the checkerboard runway to startling electro beats.
Hard to tell what was what in this spring collection, not even a relatively simple bubblegum pink hoodie was immediately recognizable for what it was. No two looks were alike and none of them alone could quite telegraph the infinite layers and techniques employed.
The Yorkshire-based designer said in a preview that he explored “controlled chaos,” which hinged on texture manipulation and a “camouflage” look.
Scarf frocks, each panel printed in a different graffiti-on-geometric shapes motif, were layered under hand-painted vintage bustiers supplied by Dolce & Gabbana as part of the tie-up; brocade Elizabethan sleeves as puffy as a meringue mingled with jeans, also from the luxury brand’s archives, which Bovan distressed, hand-painted, tore apart and embellished with crystal-encrusted chains, maxi sequins (made of 30 percent recycled materials) and glitters.
Sculptural minidresses with bumpy and lumpy hips and sleeves bore mixed prints, including one combining a checkerboard motif and purple apples. Bovan-favorite, U.K.-produced knits, too, were layered or repurposed, tied together to create a skirt with at least six trails.
A standout look combined a brocade mermaid floor-sweeping skirt with bow-shaped top under a body-fitting bustier. It was topped by a Stephen Jones pyramid-shaped hat giving off “Pinocchio” vibes.
It was quite a gargantuan treat.