A ballet dancer wanting to go directly from rehearsals to Berghain could do worse than cherry-pick from the spring MM6 Maison Margiela collection — a mashup of bodysuits, tattered denim, fragments of sweaters and the odd leather jacket.
The Orchestra Sinfonica di Milano played excerpts of Igor Stravinsky’s “Rite of Spring” as male and female models threaded their way across a stage set with small, extremely uncomfortable black stools.
The ramrod posture of this fashion troupe added an elegance to their oversize, moth-eaten sweatshirts and loose five-pocket jeans, while the styling — various suggestions of déshabillé — added a sexy undercurrent. Spaghetti-strap camisole tops were worn in multiples, some tugged down, or worn as a cummerbund to cinch boxy tailoring.
According to the press notes, the gun-shot jeans and knits were meant to evoke the scuffs of worn-in ballet shoes, and offer ventilation in stifling summer heat. The snippets of joint-warming knitwear, around hips, shoulders and elbows, looked cool and added an edge to many looks.
Running vests — the fruit of an ongoing collaboration with French outdoor brand Salomon — felt a little out of place, but arguably handy to stay hydrated while practicing at the bar — or pulling an all-nighter at the club.