Alessandro Dell’Acqua dubbed his spring 2023 collection “The Lovers,” a term he has always liked since it refers to any person in the act of loving, without constraints of gender or age, even in its Italian translation.
Yet in his mother tongue, the word is frequently used to indicate clandestine affairs, which, according to the designer, diminishes its value. Intended to celebrate the range of emotions in such relationships, Dell’Acqua translated into clothes the many mood swings of lovers by conjuring a charming collection.
“We move from jealousy to anger, from high eroticism to the deepest despair,” Dell’Acqua said backstage, explaining he used colors to channel these different feelings. Fire red and black were obvious choices, as was the designer’s signature nude tone, while pops of mint and baby blue made for a vibrant addition.
In playing with transparencies, fluid fabrics, allover sequined pieces and crumpled effects, Dell’Acqua kept silhouettes unfussy. Simple frocks mimicked slipdresses; jackets and cardigans had shrunken proportions, and satin culottes and bras abounded, either in full sight or peaking from under sheer chiffon dresses. Of course, Dell’Acqua never says no to pencil skirts, even to those not entirely zipped up on the back.
“I wanted this to be a woman rushing out of a situation, a bed or elsewhere,” the designer said about the styling choice. Indeed, models in mismatched buttoned shirts and soaked hair seemed to sensually tiptoe out of a bedroom walking in their sleek vinyl mules.
A series of embroidered white outfits reworking vintage bridal gowns in a minidress, skirt and bustier evoked “the delusion of a bride for a wedding that never happened, so she shredded the dress,” Dell’Acqua said. Those were the looks to love the most.