Moving from darkness to light, Lorenzo Serafini traded his dim cabaret recreated for the fall 2022 show for a white limbo.
Like a Polaroid, his collection of summery, easy-to-approach pieces evolved from black looks into a brighter color palette of white and pastel tones. Gradually, details were revealed, too, including the patterns of brocades; the motifs of a Toile de Jouy print Serafini previously deployed for his sophomore collection, and the Swarovski crystals punctuating two feminine tulle dresses.
Speaking of photography, famous pictures by Paolo Roversi were pinned on Serafini’s mood board. The unique use of light portrayed in the images inspired the designer to primarily focus on silhouettes, which he kept tight to the body through stretched fabrics.
The second-skin feeling was particularly strong on the upper part of the body, while volumes often widened from the waist down. Transparencies and cutouts added to the graphic quality of the collection, while laced and frilled dresses nodded to the brand’s signature romantic spirit.
Instant and unfussy, the collection was fresh and young, but not innocent. Serafini’s previous effort left a sensual trace behind, with the cheeky attitude explored in fall fading and instead yielding a nonchalant confidence.
From off-the-shoulder cropped tops revealing collarbones and curve-enhancing frocks up to a few latex items sweetened by prints, everything pointed to there still being a seductive side to the Philosophy woman — only she shows it in plain sight now.