“The collection is about movement, it’s about her — her body, her shapes her curves,” Alejandra Alonso Rojas said ahead of her salon-style, slow-sauntering spring runway show held at Fotografiska Museum’s Verōnika eatery.
“I worked with Philippine de Richemont, who’s a painter in Paris, that I met and commissioned a painting for my house, then we started talking about a beautiful painting. I gave her the color palette and we created this camouflage of women — they’re dancing, they’re interlacing with each other. I really thought, for this season, about the woman as my blank canvas, as she was thinking the same for the painting,” the designer added of the season’s print, which was splashed onto silky slips and a show-opening corset, which was paired with a rainbow-hued tiered fringe and crochet statement skirt.
Alonso Rojas translated de Richemont’s work and joyful palette into the lineup with signature degrades on an extension of her sensual knit and silken fashions — each unique, but also an expected continuation of her vernacular. However, she also dipped her toes into new event dressing with bow-front styles, and casual fare, with high-waisted, cargo-pocket corset trousers and a fringe-accented trucker-style jacket.
The look: Lively meets sensual; signature Alonso Rojas.
Quote of note: “I was inspired by the Pina Bausch, some dancing pictures from the ‘90s of Richard Avedon and how before the models were really moving and connecting with each other. I wanted to have that spirit in the collection,” Alonso Rojas said of the collection, also seen through her movement-driven look book.
Key pieces: Updated takes on signature crochet, like her mixed-media camouflage print show-opening dress and following cropped cross-back tank and floor-skimming skirt; a one-shoulder red cable-knit fringed top with puddling silk trousers; a number of body-hugging delicate knit slip dresses, or silk versions with subtle crystal embellishments and washed hand dip-dyes; a bright-pink button-front knit cardigan dress; pretty strapless corsets, and high-waisted, cargo pocket corset trousers.
The takeaway: Alonso Rojas’ signature handcraft continued to stand out for spring.