If ever proof were needed for the adage “opposites attract,” Kunihiko Morinaga provided it in his return to the Paris runway. An exploration of contrasts through extreme patchworking, there was nothing homespun about his structured silhouettes with their mathematical precision.
In a specially created in-house atelier, five craftspeople sewed together thousands of tiny scraps of 200 different fabrics from collections past into geometric patterns.
From monochrome black to jagged pseudo-miscellanies of shades, from fluid shirts to puff-sleeved dresses and structured pencil skirts, corset belts or a hoodie-cum-harness, each piece in the collection was thus crafted. The most elaborate look, a full-skirted dress with double-layered, wide sleeves, featured as many as 4,000 such fragments.
Key looks were paraded first one way, then inside out, the hems of each scrap creating texture in its second iteration. Both versions were to be displayed side-by-side in his online video, the designer explained.
Morinaga’s trompe-l’oeil game was not limited to the visual realm; each guest was equipped with a headset from sponsor NTT Sonority, which also created open-ear headsets for the runway, to be launched next year. Immersing the wearer in the experience, part of his hybrid soundtrack filtered through the earpiece, part over the sound system.