Elie Saab ventured into new materials this season, exploring crochet in crisp whites on miniskirts, jackets, halter tops and gowns.
He also lightened up sweatshirts and bomber jackets with lace fronts and floral appliqués, and worked with a sheer silk and tweed pattern. Other looks were in crisp cotton, a burst of white light, to open the show. It was a casual departure for the couturier, and the crispness was heightened by the stark white room of the Palais de Tokyo.
Looks vascillated between white and his usual use of color, which was sometimes jarring in chartreuse and coral, particularly when mixed in jagged-striped sheer pantsuits. Gowns, however, flowed with his usual flair. Some in lilac and grass green had capes, while slinkier numbers in gold and white rocked and will probably be seen on a red carpet soon.
Many looks sported bra tops and bare midriffs, in line with what we are seeing in other collections this season, while garden-inspired floral appliqués dotted more demure dresses with full skirts. Others had light embroidery for a day look. It was quintessential Saab with his usual parade of wearable fashions.