Long inspired by traditional Korean garments, Kimhekim played with the traditional hanbok shape this season, infusing his futuristic collection with touches of tradition. Titled “Neo-Seoul,” it was the sixth in his “Obsessions” series that focuses on specific details or ideas each season.
The traditional ot-goreum of long and wide decorative ribbons that fasten across the chest was translated into oversize bows that covered truncated tops, or eliminated the top altogether for just a suggestion of modesty. Kim did away with any conservative codes — a silk gown was one look, a sports bra the next.
“Once I get used to certain materials and methods, I consider them my friend. So you can see my friends living in the continuation of all my collections,” said Kim.
The designer looked to activewear and incorporated the sleek aesthetic into several looks, and brought it all together with sharp tailoring and tiny tweaks, such an almost indiscernible wave in a hem, an off-center pocket or shoulder that dips just over the arm. Cropped Oxford shirts and asymmetric jackets atop latex boots were subtly subversive, and strong shoulders added a crispness.
Kim has mastered the art of the fashion film; this season he took the viewer through five scenes all inspired by the Korean full moon dance with a thumping drumbeat that gave an energy to the empty background. His energy would be well expressed on the runway again.