Textiles were once more in the driving seat for the fifth collection of Minuit, where Laurie Arbellot started with easy jersey and a pleated fabric with a dry hand she found in Italy that reminded her of Mariano Fortuny’s work.
Their dichotomy led her to think about New York, the place she credits for teaching her “the codes of American sportswear, its downtown cool,” and developing her taste for mannish, slouchy cuts.
Injected into Minuit’s Parisian mien, it gave straightforward fare zhuzhed up with colorful topstitched outlines, or the pairing of pleated dresses with a sporty bralet. Her signature balloon-sleeved dress returned in monogrammed mesh, owing to the designer’s intention to make it “a bit cheekier” by pairing it with a black bodysuit. (Its commercial variant comes with an optional liner.)
Elsewhere, it was a compact lineup of smart boxy blousons and oversize trousers in a palette of black and white with bright pops of blue, orange or metallics. Those provided offcuts Arbellot used to introduce her first handbag design, a double pouch style in contrasting materials.
Shown during a cocktail hour presentation, Arbellot’s midday-to-midnight wardrobe certainly felt like an attractive option for girls on the go.