Women who know how to dress well aren’t afraid of color. And neither is Alexis Mabille, who — emboldened by a quote from Marcel Proust that a “dress may be brilliant without vulgarity” — went full barrel, even painting the faces of his flower women.

Such a narrow theme seemed to help Mabille, an exuberant young designer prone to overstatement. Red and blue faces notwithstanding (and forgetting the lemon-yellow tuxedo), this collection was a straightforward, client-focused affair. Mabille plied his treasured details — bows and flounces — with a lighter hand: the former represented by knotting fabric at the bosom; the latter coiling down from the shoulder of a very Galliano-esque bias gown.

Color, from blush pink to searing fuchsia, defined these body-hugging cocktail shifts and evening sheaths. Only guipure, metallic lace and panels of sheer broke up the monochromatic monotony. In fact, Mabille invested most of the decoration into look No. 5, a bustier dress glittering with dense floral embroideries of gold and micro sequins, bringing to mind a Fabergé egg.

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