Having been elected an official member of the Chambre Syndicale in December, Alexandre Vauthier said he wanted to go back to his roots and focus on craft. Translation: He muted the glow of his disco ball and pursued a more refined, sophisticated approach.
His spring couture had some solid rock ’n’ roll moments — say, an eel-skin shirt with matching skirt — and was sprinkled with cultural references. To the minimalist sounds of Philip Glass, Vauthier sent models out in an homage to Emmanuelle Seigner’s character in “Frantic,” which the actress, sitting front row, quickly recognized. “I’m wearing this black leather dress in the movie and he did it in green suede, updating it for today,” she said.
Deep emerald green and black were the colors of choice, lending the lineup a darker, moodier edge than Vauthier’s usual gang of merry disco queens. There were sparkling siren dresses, too, and the designer put an extra effort to give them a fresh polish via full-body crystal embroideries done by Lesage.
Notably, a dress provocatively patchworked together from scraps of tulle and mousseline, let off a slightly fetish vibe when worn with a tulle cape and a thick neck cuff. Vauthier confessed that there was “a hard side” to the collection, but that it just felt right. The cleaner lines were a testament to his growing maturity as a couturier.