Gustavo Lins worked undulating shapes for spring: big-collared leather vests and long, flowing dresses. The designer’s signature kimono belts were at their best when wrapped around extra-wide denim trousers worn in combination with a white shirt. Some of the clothes had a nice swagger, but the Asian influences, the draping and the asymmetry could not stop this show from falling flat.

Consider the male cast. Though a bold move, sending out men dressed in contemporary jeans and sneakers is hardly at the heart of couture, whose goal it is to celebrate craftsmanship at its finest, most elaborate form.

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